The Perfect Wine for the holidays

I often say that pairing wine to food is not a science but an art: personal taste dictates what an individual likes and doesn't like. With that said, though, I could further the science versus art comparison by noting that invariables like proper methodology, technique, and the mechanical aspect of actually creating the work in question have to be considered, too.

What that translates to as far as the legendary "perfect bottle" for the holidays is that you aren't gonna make gold from lead. A mediocre, or even worse, a flawed bottle, will not contribute its proper share of joy to the festivities. And that's the best advice I can give: drink the good stuff! Splurge!

There's the catch, though. How do you know? Just ask. Ask everybody. The folks who buy wine for the many retail shops and beverage departments in the area must have some way of knowing what to stock, just like the Meat Department guys know to stock up on turkey. And that's by experience. They have been studying and experimenting so as to find out what wines are logical on a basic level, meaning that the grapes were grown in a favorable climate, the chemistry aspect of the winemaking was sound, and there were no external contaminates that would spoil the wine.

They also try to determine what wines are well-made. It's the same as with cars. It's true that an '85 Yugo can get you to the wine shop, and probably even back again, but most everybody would rather take the trip in the Bentley. The odds are that wines made from the best quality fruit, by the most talented winemakers, will provide a more enjoyable experience. So indulge a little. Unless you're just looking for a quick buzz to take the edge off of cousin Olga's voice. Then you're on your own.

Those retail buyers are also searching for wines that give a good bang for the buck. Whether it's by jumping on bottles from an unknown but up-and-coming winery or region, or by snapping up the last few bottles of the previous vintage at a discount, your friends at the wine shop spend a great deal of time pursuing the bargains. They are tasked with pleasing their customers, after all. They've done all the footwork for the rest of us. So show some trust. Listen to their opinions.

So let's talk about me. I'll be happy to give my totally biased, subjective opinions. When faced with the task of putting that one perfect bottle of wine on the holiday table, I instead put lots. I mean, that's the point of the holiday, right? We are celebrating the bounty provided to us by our own hard work, and also the contributions of others, who introduce to us different customs and ways to celebrate. So I don't worry about having too many bottles open. Besides, it's just proper that there are leftovers of wine to go with that turkey sandwich.

No matter what, I'll pop the cork off some bubbly. Sparkling wine is the poster child for celebrations, so why not take advantage? A rosé will refresh the palate between bites and rejuvenate the spirit between ball games. It does pair especially well with pre-feast snacks, too.

Then I grab a couple whites and one or two different reds, with at least one of them being from the treasure chest. That's my way of giving to my loved ones (even Uncle Henry, who usually only drinks that stuff in the big jug and swears he "can't tell no difference, anyway"). And of course, myself.
So, what will they be this year? Suspense killing you yet?

How 'bout now?

For white, I'm planning on having a few sips of a wonderful local wine called Aromatique, from Cuckoo's Nest Cellars. It's a blend of Viognier and Gewurztraminer, and it's fruit-forward and floral and dry at the same time — it plays well with the sweeter stuff but also is good at sharing with the spices and herbs.

Although I'm a big Riesling fan, I'm going to push that aside (even though I do really enjoy them with the feast. The best ones are not too sweet, not too bitter — (kinda like cranberry relish) and instead do a Pinot Gris from one of the French big boys. I fondly recall a Zind-Humbrecht Rangen de Thann that was responsible for a wine epiphany moment experienced by a fellow guest. He was beside himself. He took the empty so he could remember what it was. I didn't tell him the cost (hint: get rid of price tags). I let him find that out on his own.

With reds, I go to both ends of the spectrum. I like a lighter-bodied red that is interesting enough on its own that I don't get tired of it. Yes, Oregon Pinot Noir from '07. There's a St Innocent White Rose Vineyard that I'm dying to get at. I think I'm gonna have to "quality test it" first thing. And then second thing.

The other one I'll set on the table is that particularly dense and powerful (translation: high alcohol level) American wine called Zinfandel. I'm drooling over how it will just work with a bite of balsamic-glazed sweet potato followed by some juicy thigh meat, but I don't want to waste any dribbling down my chin. The '08 Seghesio Sonoma Zin is rich but not raisiny, peppery but not harsh.

With dessert, I'm thinking PX. Sherry has such a bad reputation, due, I'm sure to its use as a prop in those old British dramas on PBS. But it doesn't have to be that way, dude! There's a Pedro Ximenez made by Alvear that I swear will take pumpkin pie to new heights. You'll be pouring it over the ice cream. It'll blow you away! I ain't lyin!

I'm very much looking forward to this year's banquet. Even if I have not a drop of wine, I'll still feel thankful to be among friends, sharing and helping with the festivities all I can.
But I'm not gonna wash any wine glasses. I always break the damn things.

—Thomas King